Feeding the Ghost

On the way to Pai, we stopped at a nondescript roadside stand that is famous for making Thailand's best sai-ua (Chiang Mai style spicy sausage). We bought sausage, sticky rice, and nam prik (roasted green chilis), and pulled over along the side of the road to eat.

Dom took a clump of sticky rice, shaped it into a mound, stuck a piece of sausage onto it, and handed it to me.

"Take this and go put on the ground. Don't throw, be careful, and after you put down, do like this."

He lifted his hands and bowed his head in a praying gesture.

And I probably looked a little confused.

"Thai people, when we eat near the road, we need to give some food first for ghost. Have many ghost they live here."

"Okay."

I carefully placed the rice on the grass, making a little praying motion, and then we started to eat (and this, by the way, was one of the most incredibly delicious meals I've had in my life, definitely worth flying 17 hours for). Within minutes, a mangy cream colored dog came trotting along the road towards us. He spotted the sausage on the ground, headed straight for it and gobbled it down.

"Hmm...is that the ghost?" I sort of jokingly asked.

"I don't know. Can be."

We ate until we couldn't eat anymore, and then we fed the rest to the dog. Whether he was a ghost or not, I don't know. But that scraggly dog appeared out of nowhere on a deserted road at exactly the right time. Remember that the next time you're about to eat in your car.

Weird Sign of the Day

Christmas in Thailand - Part Two

Melly Kissmas Tlee!!!

An elderly man approached me on the street in Chiang Mai this afternoon and said this to me with all sincerity.

Being a Buddhist country, Thailand does not celebrate Christmas. An unknowing visitor may find this hard to believe, however, with the millions of flashing holiday lights, the tuk-tuk drivers wearing Santa hats, and the Christmas carols blaring from every store doorway.

For Christmas dinner last night, I went with Dom's family for moo-ga-taa, which is sort of like Korean hot pot, only much cheaper. All the meat and seafood you can eat for about $3.75 per person, which you grill at your own table. I had the honor of grilling an octopus (which barely put up a fight). It was slightly disturbing how much I enjoyed hacking its charred little legs off with a cleaver afterwards...

Earlier in the day we rented a motorbike and drove up to Wat Doi Suthep temple, which is on the mountain overlooking the city. I try to visit this temple every time I come to Chiang Mai because it is one of the most extraordinary places in Thailand. It's one of the holiest Buddhist sights in this part of the country.

The story is that Doi Suthep was built in this remote mountaintop location because a rare white elephant, carrying a relic of the Buddha, was chosen to select a site for this important temple. The elephant made its way to the top of this mountain and, when it reached this particular site, lay down and died.

The degree of faith you see here - from people of all ages - is very moving. It is customary to hold a single lotus flower between one's palms and circle the main stupa three times. Offerings of incense are made, and monks are available for blessings. You can hang a small brass bell from the edges of the rooftops. When the wind blows, it is believed that your wish will be carried into heaven by the sound of the bell ringing.

Tomorrow we're renting a car and driving north to the village of Pai, in the remote mountains near the Burmese border - the land of elephants, indigenous hill tribes, and (gasp!) opium. Sounds adventurous, I know, but honestly, I'm looking forward to just laying in a hammock under a shady tree for an afternoon.

Christmas in Thailand - Part One

I realize that technically, it's not Christmas yet. Okay...Advent in Thailand... Hanukkah in Thailand!

It's impossible to avoid thinking about the thousands of people who were stranded here a few weeks ago when the airport was closed. Not to downplay the incredible inconvenience of that - or for those with emergencies, even worse - but being stuck in Bangkok would be a bit like being stuck in Manhattan. Anything you could possibly want is available day or night, and possibly just outside your door. Need some silverware? A pair of shoes? Spare part for that '68 Mustang? A potato, maybe? Someone on the street outside will be selling it.

For less than $60 a night I a have a beautifully renovated apartment (with washer/dryer), daily maid service, gym, pool, and breakfast included...just 3 blocks from the Skytrain and river taxi. As I head from the 16th floor down to the street, I am saluted by the elevator attendant. "Good morning sir!" I pass a maid in the hallway who wais and bows graciously to me. "Good morning sir!" The bellman salutes me as I pass the reception desk."Good morning sir!" "The doorman rushes to open the door for me."Good morning sir!"

I leave all this behind as I step through the gate onto the small soi in front of the building. The air fills with the scents of dried fish, diesel fumes, and barbecued pork.

Suddenly, a stranger sound. "Baaaaaaa"

And again, louder "BAAAAAA!"

A young boy is walking in the street with a lamb. On a leash.

This is so cute - and unusual - I ask if I can take a photo. As soon as I have the camera out, three more boys appear with another lamb. They all ham it up (lamb it up?) and we take pictures and laugh.

But as I walk away the inevitable thought occurs to me....Pets? Or dinner?